From scratch, from ‘1’ to ‘3’, this is the journey of Chanel on the road of the brand’s homemade movement. In 2016, the first brand-made movement Calibre 1 was born. Three years later, at this year’s Basel watch fair, Chanel’s third self-made caliber Calibre 3 made a stunning appearance. Among them, what efforts does the Chanel brand make for the self-made movements. Does the legendary ‘brand-made’ rely on the ‘genuine skills’? Today, follow the House of Watches and walk into the secret of the Chanel brand’s homemade movement.
Chanel’s third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3
First of all, for a long time, the concept of home-made movements has been a yardstick for judging the level of brand watchmaking. Then, due to labor, materials, and market upgrades, more and more professional watchmaking brands have gradually shifted to a streamlined operation mode with lower costs and better production efficiency.
The knocker-Chanel’s first self-made movement Calibre 1.
Back of the Chanel Monsieur de CHANEL with the first self-made Calibre 1
We must know that the development of a brand-made movement is extremely demanding in terms of technology, talent, time and energy. Among the watches of the Chanel mechanical movement, the selected movement is mostly the ETA movement. Although the brand has also introduced complex functions such as tourbillon watches, it also develops movement components with partners. What exactly caused Chanel to decide on the road to brand-made movements? From one side to guess the reason, I guess it is because Chanel’s determination to become a professional watch brand has a lot to do with it. Having a brand-made movement also means that the brand can master more professional watchmaking techniques. Being able to master more professional watchmaking technology can keep the brand in the fine watchmaking industry in a position that cannot be underestimated, and it is by no means a play ticket.
Chanel’s first self-made fine watchmaking movement Calibre 1
The first Calibre
The birth of 1 is the result of five years of research and development by the Chanel R & D team. It has the functions of instant jump time and 240-degree flyback minute hand. It has 170 components. The dual barrel ensures that it can meet the power reserve of 72 hours Function, having two complex functions at the same time is enough to prove the strength of this movement. In the movement chart, we can see that these two functional components are not additional modules, but the native structure of this movement. This point limits its versatility in developing other functions and styles, and such a design is also difficult to achieve mass production-the requirements for production levels are very high. So equipped with the first Calibre
The Monsieur de CHANEL watch of 1 is divided into a small number of high-level layers. At the time, this series took the beige 18K gold model as an example, and the price was about 250,000 yuan.
Monsieur de Chanel with Calibre 1
Chanel Monsieur de CHANEL watch
This year, Chanel has made more changes on this basis. The movement is equipped with two functions: instantaneous hour jump and flyback minute hand, and incorporates the Lion Totem into other works in the series.
It’s more like a work of art-a first impression of Calibre 2.
Chanel’s second self-made watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 2
The Chanel-branded Calibre 2 movement is conceived, developed, monitored and assembled by the brand’s professional watchmaking team in Switzerland. The movement is composed of 107 parts compared to Calibre
In terms of 1, its constituent parts are reduced. The design team refined the movement parts and extended the movement plywood from the center in a circle shape. The rings are like a blooming camellia.
The second self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement developed by Chanel-Calibre 2
The highly visual design is highly impactful, and the geometric hollow-out movement concisely outlines the elegance of camellia. The parts of the movement have been chamfered and revolved with a ring pattern. The details show the brand’s ingenuity and unremitting pursuit of creativity.
Chanel Premier Camellia Watch with Calibre 2
With an art-like appearance and blessed by advanced watchmaking technology, this Calibre
2 On the basis of the overall reduction of the movement and the reduction of parts, it can still meet the power reserve function of up to 48 hours. The travel time is accurate, and the vibration amplitude can be stably maintained at 28,800 times per hour. For the movement of a women’s watch, it has a perfect shape; returning to the role of the movement, its impeccable structure and superb watchmaking craftsmanship made it attract attention once it was launched.
Chanel MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ Camellia skeleton watch
In 2018, Chanel incorporates Calibre 2.1, a watchmaking movement, into Mademoiselle
PRIVÉ jewelry watch series design. Camellia is Ms. Chanel’s favorite iconic element, and it is not easy to integrate this element into the making of watches. Chanel has invited excellent enamel technicians, sculptors and gem inlayers to complete this masterpiece. MADEMOISELLE
The perfect aesthetics of PRIVÉ series are perfectly blended with exquisite craftsmanship, and they can be called the masterpieces of high-end manual workshops.
Chasing after victory-Chanel launches Calibre 3, the third self-made movement.
Chanel’s latest third self-made fine watchmaking mechanical movement-Calibre 3
At the Basel Show this year, Chanel launched the new self-made movement Calibre 3, which is the third consecutive year of Chanel’s self-made movement. Compared with the previous two self-made movements, its design is more modern style-simple, no unnecessary decorative lines; tough, black ADLC coated parts give a more firm and resolute feeling .
Chanel’s third self-made Calibre 3 real shot
Unlike many fine watch movements, Calibre
The 3 movement is not mirror-polished or other delicate hand-finished, but this does not mean that this movement has no technical content. The movement is treated with black ADLC coating, which is similar to DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon Coating). The ADLC carbon coating can provide extremely strong resistance. The special characteristics of the material make it have super shock resistance and scratch resistance. On the movement material, Chanel has shown us more possibilities.
Pictured above is the Calibre 3 movement with black ADLC coating and beige gold Watanabe.
The new Calibre 3 movement features a manual winding mechanism and a fully skeletonized design with no rudder cover. The barrel can ensure a power reserve of at least 55 hours, while also being equipped with a shockproof device. In terms of performance, another big step forward.
Chanel Boy ∙ Friend skeleton watch with Caliber 3
Black is the color of the universe, and it is also the color of the Chanel-made premium movement. Combining black with the movement perfectly and placing it in the center of the iconic octagonal case, we have to lament that Chanel has pushed the relationship between art and watchmaking to a higher level.
Summary: The development and birth of the three self-made movements are just the beginning. On the road of Chanel watchmaking, there will be more or excellent performances, or ingenious designs that can lead the new wave of movements and watches waiting to be mined. . Of the three Chanel brand-made movements decrypted above, which one do you prefer? Which one’s design and performance appeal to you more?
For more details, please pay attention to the live feature of the Basel Watch Fair: