‘A herring’ may be a proper analogy for Swiss watch companies, because when Swiss watch companies find they are threatened, they can always change their design. Therefore, when the 2008 economic crisis broke out, all Swiss product development offices were up and running; the end result was a new watch of the year. Those who love antique clocks may want to thank the giants who have fallen in the subprime crisis. Because of the sudden return of retro style, everyone misses the beloved watch style in the middle of the 20th century; the best proof of this is the recently popular classical Chronograph, and this complicated style has appeared many years ago …
From left: Breguet Classique 18K rose gold chronograph, $ 43,600; Vacheron Constantin Heritage Chronograph, $ 51,700; Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J $ 80,900. (Picture / Jeff Harris) From left: Breguet Classique 18K Rose Gold Chronograph, $ 43,600; Vacheron Constantin Heritage Chronograph, $ 51,700; Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J $ 80,900. Paul Bouchers, a collector who is extremely interested in antique watches, including periodic chronographs, said, ‘Pocket watch timers are usually equipped with 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock dials. Early watch timers were at 3 Set the dial at 9 o’clock; this makes the watch look simple and elegant and balanced, and the style will never go out of style. ‘
Sotheby’s auctioneer Geoff Wader-Ade said more clearly, ‘The first watch timer we know is a double-tracking chronograph made by Patek Philippe in 1923. It was auctioned in 1999. At the time, the watch was very influential, reaching the highest price on record. ‘
From left: Roger Dubuis Monaco rose gold chronograph $ 38,300; Montblanc Villeret Vintage chronograph $ 55,300 From left: Roger Dubuis Monaco rose gold chronograph $ 38,300; Montblanc Villeret Vintage chronograph $ 55,300 Pilot Chronograph, $ 5,800; Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars chronograph $ 43,700; Chopard LUC Chrono One 18K rose gold chronograph $ 38,700 Zenith Pilot Chronograph, $ 5,800; Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars chronograph $ 43,700; Chopard LUC Chrono One 18K rose gold chronograph $ 38,700
Over the next few years, chronographs went into production in large numbers, such as Valjoux and later Lemanian suppliers selling movements to many companies. The design of these movements is customized according to the position of the dial, and has become a typical representative of the beautiful appearance of these early chronographs. By the 1940s, more three-dial configurations began to appear. However, the original design has made the watch a professional instrument and has been applied to military service in the second world; at the same time, it has some romantic qualities.特 That quality is perhaps the most valuable commodity in modern watchmaking. In the latest batch of antique-style chronographs, many have been designed to be romantic, no matter how modern the internal structure is. For example, the new generation of Chopard’s Chrono One is built with the most advanced movement. The third dial is concealed precisely to create an ancient style. Similarly, Audemars Piguet’s modular system can be configured in any way, allowing designers to make any style they want.
Among the most worthy watches to collect, there are some classic Breguet chronographs and Vacheron Constantin ancestral chronographs, which still use Lehmania 2310 movement (now manufactured by Breguet); 2310 (Lemania 2310) is a manual chronograph movement, which has a close relationship with classical. Until now, this movement is still used in Patek Philippe chronograph.
Patek Philippe is the latest company to release a new movement with a similar design. Although the new movement has made several improvements, it still follows the spirit and architecture of the original era. Montblanc’s Villeret device and Roger Dubuis (plus a micro-motor that automatically winds itself) also released a movement with the same mobile structure. This movement highly praises the old times. People who love mechanical watches will no doubt In the future, retro style will continue to rise.
From left: Heuer 1911 Monza, $ 6,500; Baume & Mercier Capeland 10007, $ 19,500 From left: Heuer 1911 Monza, $ 6,500; Baume & Mercier Capeland 10007, $ 19,500