Month: February 2019

PatekPhilippe’s first Nautilus series chronograph Ref. 5980 / 1A was launched in 2006. At the time, it was very popular because it had all the conditions of a sports watch. The time function provides greater convenience for contemporary people to travel around and jump around.

Feature one: The first feature combination of Nautilus
The Nautilus series debuted in Ref. 3700 / 1A in 1976. At present, the series has been over 40 years old. The Ref. 5990 / 1A time chronograph is one of the complicated function timepieces and will replace the aforementioned Ref. 5980 / 1A. Although Patek Philippe used the date, chronograph and time display complex functions in other series earlier, this is the first feature combination of the Nautilus series.

In addition to the unique porthole lines and hinged ridges of the Nautilus case, the new watch’s black surface has a gradual tone from the center to the periphery and is decorated with the common lateral pattern of Nautilus.

Feature two: Super convenient time adjustment between the two places
The watch is equipped with two coaxial hour hands. The hollowed-out hour hand on the lower layer indicates the home time. The upper hand design matches the minute hand to display the local time. If the watch’s main body is in the home country, the two hour hands will overlap each other to indicate the same time zone. , But if you need to go to another time zone, you can adjust the local time hour hand by one hour through the increase and decrease buttons attached to the horizontal ridge on the left side of the watch. If the watch owner goes east to another time zone toward the sun, he must correct the hands counterclockwise; if he goes west, he adjusts the hands in the opposite direction, and the hollow hands will not be affected by the above correction process. Home time. The 5990 / 1A watch also has two separate day and night displays, ‘LOCAL’ and ‘HOME’, located below the center axis of the watch, so that the watch owner will not call his loved ones late in the evening.

The time display function of 5990 / 1A can be adjusted by adjusting the left and right ridges. As the watch and the handle line are continuous, the craftsman must open a hole in the case to join each new handle, and at the same time Keep 120 meters waterproof

Feature three: functional design
The watch is equipped with a CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement, a traditional column wheel design, and an innovative disc clutch. The two-time device, which was patented in 1959, can be adjusted in one hour in both directions. The local time display shows that when the time zone setting is changed, the device can be completely disengaged from the gear set without affecting the swing of the balance wheel and the speed performance of the watch. The case has also been redesigned. Nautilus’ unique porthole lines and two hinged transverse ridges are exactly matched with this complex function combination. The right transverse ridge protects the crown and the left side is converted into two time zone adjustment buttons. All buttons are set along the original contour of the case. However, the coherence of the watch and the handle is a great challenge for the watchmaker: the craftsman needs to make a hole in the case and join each new handle, but still must ensure that the watch is waterproof to a depth of 120 meters. The difficulty is self-evident. Nautilus’ new chronograph meets all waterproof specifications and uses the latest sealing technology to achieve such waterproof performance.

The date display of 5990 / 1A is moved to the 12 o’clock position and changed to the pointer display; the original single integrated time dial is changed to a scoreboard. The movement needs 47 new parts to match the above changes, but the thickness is only 0.3mm larger than the original model.

Nautilus 5990 / 1A dual time chronograph

Stainless steel material / CH 28-520 C FUS automatic winding movement / hours, minutes, date display / chronograph function / dual time display / individual time zone day and night display / sapphire crystal / waterproof 120 meters / 40.5mm Reference price: 363,000 RMB

It’s the same green ghost, and the difference is tens of thousands? In 2003, it coincided with the 50th anniversary of the launch of the Rolex explosion series ‘Submariner’. To this end, Rolex specially launched the 50th Anniversary Edition of the Water Ghost Ref.16610LV. The biggest difference from the ordinary Water Ghost is that its aluminum rotating outer ring has been changed from black to green that Rolex has never used before. , And echoes the Rolex trademark. The green ghost is already hot enough, and there is a hotter subdivision version in the green ghost called ‘Flat 4’, the Chinese translation is ‘flat head 4’, and the price is now at least tens of thousands more expensive. It differs from the ordinary version of the green aluminum ring green ghost only in that the internal space of the ‘4’ character on the 40 scale is a trapezoid, not a triangle. This special ‘Flat 4’ version of Flat Head 4 appeared only in the early days of Ref.16610LV Green Ghost launch, the last Y-header in 2002 and the F-header in 2003, and then it was gone, and the number of production was small. The story of Flathead 4 and the long past, where is the last chance? The Sea-Dweller series can be traced back to the cooperation between Rolex and French underwater engineering company Comex in the 1960s. In order to adapt to deep-sea saturation diving, Rolex added a new patented ‘helium exhaust valve’ to the side of the case based on the Ref. 5513 of the Water Ghost series, and then specifically Ref. 5514 for Comex. After further upgrades, the waterproof depth was increased from 200 meters to 500 meters for water ghosts, and began to mark the dial with ‘Sea-Dweller’, and the white font was labeled ‘Submariner water ghost’. ‘Single Red’. By this period, it still belongs to a small-scale experimental stage. ‘Sea-Dweller’ is also subordinate to ‘Submariner’. After actual testing, Rolex publicly introduced Ref.1665 to the market in 1967. Its dial is marked with ‘Sea-Dweller’ and ‘Submariner’ in two lines of red font. It is called ‘Double Red’ . The year 1967 was also known as the ‘Sea-Dweller’. According to the inertia of most people, a two-line scarlet letter is more valuable than a single line, after all, one more line. But in fact, because Shan Hong is an early small batch prototype, it is actually more valuable. In 2017, Rolex launched the new Sea-Dweller Ref.126600. Compared with the previous generation, Rolex added a bold red letter at six o’clock, marked ‘Sea-Dweller’! This is the modern version of ‘Single Red Sea Messenger’. In addition to the red lettering on the dial, a significant change in the new Ref. 126600 is the use of Rolex’s latest 32-series movement. Usually at six o’clock on the dial, Rolex will print the words ‘swiss made’. However, starting in 2018, a small crown was added between the two words. The reason for this is that the appearance of Rolex’s sports watches has not changed much, and at the same time, it has a dense bottom and cannot see the movement. In order to promote the sales of new models, Rolex deliberately added a small crown on the dial to increase the difference between the old and the new models for easy and quick differentiation. The new Ref.126600 was replaced with a new movement when it was launched in 2017, but this ‘diamond crown’ measure was not implemented, but it was only followed up in 2018. Therefore, Ref.126600 of the same model has two versions due to different dials, which are MK1 and MK2. The main difference between them is that the MK1 dial does not have a small crown, and the MK2 dial has a small crown. Because the MK1 was released from 2017 and discontinued in 2018, the actual production life is less than one year. At the same time, as the first new sea dweller to be sold in bulk, it naturally has the same hype as the ‘flat head 4’. When ordinary cousins ​​were still grabbing Ref. 126600 of MK2, the old drivers with ‘smell sense’ were buying MK1. Although popular models + commemorative models + recognition + small numbers may not be speculative, but those who can be speculated have these priority conditions. From time to time, there are watch friends’ private messages. Does a watch have a ‘collection’ value? The answer is very simple. When you ask this question to others, it proves that it is gone, because you do not have independent thinking + precise judgment + a huge source of information. It is undeniable that some of his cousins ​​were overwhelmed, but in fact it was not that he was smart enough and understood, but that he was lucky enough to hit the air. —END —

Engineer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month watch is equipped with perpetual calendar and large digital date display. Its dynamic design and titanium aluminum alloy case are refreshing. The integrated quick-change device releases the maximum power on time when the month is switched, just like the hybrid push button on the steering wheel of a Formula 1 Formula One car.
 
 When it comes to the application of the latest high-tech materials, both watchmaking and motorsport are eager to try, not to be left behind. For the first time, Schaffhausen IWC presented a watch made of titanium aluminum alloy (TiAl), emphasizing its passion for innovative solutions. As early as 1980, the watchmaker from Schaffhausen introduced titanium as a case material to the watchmaking industry. Titanium-aluminum alloys are used in pistons and valves in motorsports because the alloy is stronger, lighter than pure titanium, and it is very suitable for the extreme high temperatures of the combustion chamber. How to process this high-performance material into a blank case is a technical challenge. IWC’s team of experts worked hard for three years and finally mastered the essentials of production. The engineer’s perpetual calendar digital date month watch has buttons, crowns, screw caps and crown guards made of black high-tech ceramic (zirconia). This anti-magnetic, acid-resistant and extremely scratch-resistant material was also introduced by IWC as the first watch factory. It was first used in the manufacture of the case in 1986: the Da Vinci ceramic watch (model 3755) was born. Ceramic-containing synthetic materials are widely used in F1 ™ Formula 1 brake discs because of their extreme wear and temperature resistance. Therefore, the combination of titanium aluminum alloy and ceramic is not only a testament to the successful research and development of IWC, but also a sign of the close relationship between the engineer’s watch and motorsport.

 If Formula 1 ™ drivers need more power on the track, they can press the hybrid propulsion button on the steering wheel to excite the engine’s maximum power. When the engineer’s perpetual calendar digital date and month watch needs to advance the leap year display disc in addition to driving the two date and month discs, there is no advance button to help it achieve this function. In order to overcome this technical problem, the IWC team composed of engineers, designers and watchmakers has spent 4 years of hard work to develop an independent power reserve device, the so-called fast switching device. With this ingenious device, a small part of the energy is transferred and accumulated during the night date switching every day, and released on time at the end of the month to advance the display disc. At the end of the year, plus the leap year display, there are even five display disks that are synchronized. Of course, the accuracy of the movement will not be affected-even when the movement of the movement is nearing its end or when the timing function is used.

 The innovative ‘table-in-table’ design aims to quickly and intuitively summarize the time between one minute and 12 hours: the time within 60 seconds is always displayed by the central chronograph hand, and the measured hours and hours The minutes are displayed in the accumulator at ’12 o’clock’, and the time is displayed by the hands, which is easy to read. The built-in flyback function resets the running chronograph hands to zero and starts a new timing. In order to achieve convenient timing functions, the designers of IWC developed the 89802-made self-made movement with a highly efficient double-pawl automatic mechanism. The movement is composed of 474 independent components and has a power reserve of 68 hours. 2013 is the year of motorsport. Therefore, the rotor has properly adopted the shape of the spokes of the car. You can watch the movement through the transparent sapphire glass back of the engineer’s perpetual calendar digital date month watch. The fiber-lined black rubber strap has an exquisite appearance, is extremely wearable and durable.
Geneva International Haute Horlogerie 2013: