Dual frequency watch that can be freely switched by the wearer
The watch’s perpetual calendar function uses an instantaneous jump display. It has a high-frequency active mode of 5 Hz and a low-frequency standby mode of 1.2 Hz. It is lossless when switching modes (patent pending)
Power reserve of at least 65 days in idle mode
With a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.3 mm, it integrates highly complex clock functions in a tight space and enhances the power reserve
Careful design, easy adjustment and convenient use
A perpetual calendar watch closer to ‘permanent use’
(Geneva International Haute Horlogerie 2019, January 14, 2019) In the 264-year history of superb watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin has unremittingly innovated in the field of watchmaking technology and design aesthetics, establishing an unshakable reputation. Today, with the stunning debut of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle line of dual-core perpetual calendar watches, this outstanding timepiece that meets the needs of the wearer will redefine the future of fine watchmaking.
When worn, the Traditionnelle dual-core perpetual calendar watch will be in a high-frequency active mode. The dial displays the hour, minute, date, month, leap year cycle, and power reserve, consistent with the fast-paced modern lifestyle. When the watch does not need to be worn, the 3610 movement developed by the brand can be adjusted to the low frequency standby mode, which reduces the operating speed to ensure a power reserve of at least 65 days.
There was a basic theoretical setting in the mechanical watchmaking industry. The barrel was designed to output kinetic energy at fixed time intervals, with a small deviation from the power reserve cycle described above. The Traditionnelle series dual-core perpetual calendar watch can effectively transform the fixed kinetic energy of the mainspring into variable energy, which raises the adaptability of advanced mechanical watchmaking to a whole new level.
With 264 years of fine watchmaking experience, Vacheron Constantin pioneered the Traditionnelle dual-core perpetual calendar watch with two balance wheels, each operating at different frequencies. The button at 8 o’clock allows the wearer to easily switch between the two frequencies. When wearing, set the watch to high-frequency active mode. In this mode, the balance wheel vibrates at 5 Hz (36,000 times / hour), and the power reserve is up to 4 days.
If the watch is left standing for a long time, you can switch it to the low frequency standby mode. The vibration frequency of the movement of the second balance wheel will be greatly reduced to 1.2 Hz (8,640 times / hour), which enables the watch’s power reserve to be extended to at least 65 days. During this time, the time and perpetual calendar display are still operating normally. If you need to wear it, you can switch back to the high frequency active mode at any time.
Perpetual calendar new ideas
Perpetual calendar is considered to be one of the most practical timepieces with high complexity. The precise operation mechanism can correctly display all date information including big and small months and leap years, so the perpetual calendar function has extremely high daily practical value. However, the practicality of perpetual calendar watches has so far been limited by the traditional clockwork technology-in most cases, perpetual calendar watches need time adjustment before wearing.
Today, this hand-wound perpetual calendar watch can correctly display the date and month after standing still for more than two months, which is a pioneering work in the history of brand watchmaking. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle inherited the series of dual-core rate perpetual calendar watches truly realized the meaning of ‘perpetual calendar’, is a milestone on the journey of continuous innovation of the brand.
Power and Control of Dual Core Rate® System
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle series dual-core perpetual calendar watch uses a patent-pending mechanical system that can instantly switch from the high-frequency active mode of 5 Hz (36,000 times / hour) to the movement without disturbing the movement of the movement. 1.2 Hz (8,640 times / hour) low frequency standby mode.
The system was inspired by the ‘unscheduled’ timekeeping system of the Edo Period (1603-1868) in Japan. This time system (derived from the Chinese twelve Earthly Branches Timekeeping Method) divides day and night into six parts, but the length of each part will be different due to the change of day and night and the season. Clocks of this period were equipped with single or double balances, which automatically switched the operating speed. At the Geneva International Haute Horlogerie 2019, a Japanese light clock born in the early 18th century with a similar structure was exhibited in the Vacheron Constantin showroom. This light clock is a collection of the Musée Internationald’Horlogerie.
The mode switcher is the key to the proper operation of the Dual Core® System. It uses a single balance wheel mechanism-only one balance wheel is allowed to operate at a time. In addition, the single balance mechanism allows instantaneous switching between different modes without any delay. This guarantees that the 3610 movement will not be interrupted and the time display is extremely accurate.
The two balance wheels in the high frequency active mode of 5 Hz (36,000 times / hour) and the low frequency standby mode of 1.2 Hz (8,640 times / hour) are driven by the same barrel. This is also the most effective way to allocate kinetic energy. This distribution method is also the only way to achieve a single power reserve display. Energy efficiency is at the heart of the Traditionnelle dual-core perpetual calendar watch, especially highlighting the dual-core rate system and its significance.
When the watch is left flat for a long time, the high-frequency running balance will continue to consume clockwork power, while the watch’s low-frequency standby mode has a vibration frequency of only 1.2 Hz (8,640 times / hour). The advantage of its low energy consumption.
Enduring a perpetual calendar watch
In order to take full advantage of the dual core rate® system that can be adjusted by the wearer and discover potential kinetic energy, the perpetual calendar function mechanism of this watch has also been redesigned to minimize energy consumption.
The jump display mode will have a side effect on the stable operation of the balance wheel of the movement-the power input to the balance wheel will be reduced due to the jump. In many cases, it will also cause the amplitude of the balance wheel to weaken, affecting the overall movement time of the movement. This interference is particularly noticeable on watches equipped with multiple jump displays, such as a perpetual calendar.
In the Traditionnelle dual-core perpetual calendar watch, Vacheron Constantin uses the instant jump display of the date, month and leap year (patent pending). To this end, we redesigned the jump mechanism, using a spring-type double gear compound system, so that the torque required by the jump mechanism is only a quarter of the traditional jump display. With this improvement, even if three instantaneous jump displays are active at the same time during the New Year’s zero, the amplitude of the balance wheel is negligible.
More technical challenges
In Traditionnelle’s line of dual-core perpetual calendar watches, in order to achieve the fusion of extraordinary perpetual calendar functions and the creative and innovative dual-core rate system, the brand has also solved many other mechanical problems.
For the first time in the Traditionnelle dual-core perpetual calendar watch, Vacheron Constantin broke the traditional range of oscillator frequencies. To this end, the brand has launched a new research and development on the basic principles of mechanical timing.
The result is the birth of a new hairspring, designed to meet the high-sensitivity idle mode balance (1.2 Hz, 8,640 times / hour). Its cross-sectional area is only 0.0774 mm × 0.0159 mm, which is as thin as hair. . The cross section of the balance spring in the idle mode balance is almost a quarter of the balance spring in the active mode balance (5 Hz, 36,000 times / hour), which is finer.
The display of time and minutes in the Traditionnelle series double-core rate perpetual calendar watch may seem strange, but its complexity is beyond conventional and far beyond precedent. Since the 3610 movement is equipped with two balance wheels and will not operate at the same time, each time the time is read, the hour and minute hands must obtain variable information from the two gear trains. The existence of a gear differential allows the pointer to read travel time data from multiple input sources.
The second differential is mounted on the barrel for winding the mainspring and reduces the mainspring torque when the mainspring outputs kinetic energy to the idle mode balance wheel (with a delicate hairspring specially designed for low-frequency swing). . The two differentials transmit the kinetic energy storage information to the small dial to show the remaining power of the mainspring.
The powerful 3610 movement has 480 parts, but its thickness is only 6 mm and its diameter is only 32 mm, which is a feat of micro-engineering. With the Traditionnelle inherited dual-core perpetual calendar watch, Vacheron Constantin has reached another peak in the field of movement structure optimization.
Craft from design
In addition to the classic platinum case design and the prestigious high-complexity function, the Traditionnelle lineage dual-core perpetual calendar watch also deliberately incorporates modern aesthetics in ancient finishing techniques.
The movement splints and bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and have a dark coating after NAC treatment, which has better corrosion resistance and durability than other similar processes.
On the dial, the 18th-century art-inspired machine-painted pattern and matte finish are transformed into simple radial machine-engraved carvings and sandblasted surfaces. In order to achieve the full integration of tradition and contemporary, the dial is divided into two main parts during the processing, and multi-stage processing technology is used. The gold dial is decorated with a hand-machine engraved pattern in the central area of the gold dial and is embedded in the sapphire crystal outer ring. The gold hour markers are also embedded in the sapphire crystal outer ring. Finally, laser engraving and ink filling technology are used to achieve a smooth and seamless appearance.
Classic case design, contemporary dial and exquisite movement subtly blend, Traditionnelle inherited the dual core rate perpetual calendar watch underscores the self-evident low-key feature-with unremitting innovation, inheriting the unparalleled brand watchmaking essence.
Traditionnelle Dual Core Perpetual Calendar Watch
Model: 3200T / 000P-B578
Vacheron Constantin develops and manufactures itself
Manual winding mechanical movement
32 mm in diameter (14¼ ft), thickness 6 mm
Vibration frequency: 5 Hz (36,000 times / hour); 1.2 Hz (8,640 times / hour)
High frequency active mode (5 Hz frequency): about 4 days power reserve
Low frequency standby mode (1.2 Hz frequency): about 65 days power reserve
Certified by the Geneva Seal
Display function: hour, minute, instant jump perpetual calendar display, power reserve, vibration frequency switching mode
Case: 950 platinum
42 mm diameter, 12.3 mm thickness
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 3 bar atmospheric pressure test (about 30 meters)
Dial: gold-plated hand-engraved black-brown dial (central area) and transparent sapphire crystal dial (outer ring)
18K white gold applied hour markers, 18k white gold hour and minute hands, black oxidized gold hands, indicating power reserve, date, month and frequency switching mode
Strap: grey double-layer Mississippi alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, riding stitching, large checkered
Buckle: 950 platinum pin buckle, polished half-Malta cross shape