Vintage watch collectors should thank those predators who have fallen in the subprime crisis, because their large-scale fall has brought a retro style to the watch industry. In the middle of the 20th century The watch style has regained its popularity and conservative style prevails. This is clear at a glance in the various double-track retro chronographs that flood the market today.
‘In the past, pocket watches often had a small chronograph dial at 12 and 6 o’clock,’ explains Paul Boutros, a collector who loves both vintage and vintage watches. ” Early watches often had two small dials at 3 and 9 o’clock. This design gave these early chronographs a balance of simplicity and elegance. This look is timeless. ‘The auctioneer Geoffroy Ader of Sotheby’s auction house is more precise.’ The first chronograph was a double-tracking hand model launched by Patek Philippe in 1923. This watch The impact on the watchmaking industry was profound and set a record for auctions in 1999. ‘
The chronograph entered the mass production phase in the following years. Suppliers such as the famous Swiss movement manufacturer Valjoux and later Lemania ‘popularized’ such chronograph movements with almost all watch manufacturing companies at the time. This movement, which had already preset the small dial position in the initial design, also directly ‘specified’ the classic appearance of the early double-track chronograph. In the late 1940s, the more modern three-hand chronograph began to appear. However, the original dual-needle design has established a good reputation for professional timing equipment and became the standard on the wrists of multinational troops during World War II.
经典 The superb quality and design of this classic watch is perhaps the most valuable heritage in modern watch manufacturing. Most of the retro watches that have appeared in recent years have taken design inspiration and essence from the original internal structure of the chronograph, and improved the design style and chronological performance. For example, Chopard’s latest retro Chrono One, this model is equipped with an ultra-modern vertical escapement, the third small dial is designed to be extremely concealed, in order to ‘restore’ the original appearance of the dual small dial. Similar to its pedigree is Audemars Piguet’s chronograph models, where the traditional form of the chronograph can be used to the fullest. It is worth mentioning that both Audemars Piguet and Chopard chronograph models are mostly self-winding. This technology was applied to watches after many years of classic chronograph frequency.
Another example of a collection of watches worthy of collection, such as the Breguet Classique series and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle series, still use the Lemania 2310 movement (now produced by Montres Breguet), manual winding, lateral escapement, these are the same as that Direct connection of the times. This movement is also used in Patek Philippe’s corresponding models after being improved.
Recently launched a brand based on a traditional chronograph to design a new movement. It is none other than Patek Philippe. There has been a significant improvement in the function and performance of the movement. Basically, Patek Philippe still firmly grasps and restores the essence and representativeness of the time soul. Montblanc’s Villeret factory and Roger Dubuy (equipped with a self-winding micro movement / microrotor) also released tribute to the representative of that era and time. It can be predicted that this model will still be popular for a long time in the foreseeable future.
Let us further appreciate the six chronographs launched this year, and taste the ‘classical flame’ contained in their upper body.
Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Speed Silver Watch
The human pursuit of speed has never stopped. One of the great functions of the chronograph is to witness human beings breaking the speed limit on the racing track again and again. Following in 2011, Chopard launched the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rossa Corsa chronograph. In 2012, the classic racing watch series also added a silver top speed model. The dazzling silver illuminance is reminiscent of the domination of sports cars in the 1930s. German legend engine-Flèches d’Argent.
The new Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Speed Silver chronograph, with a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, continues the traditional design of the chronograph, while the 30-minute counter is set at 12 o’clock instead of the traditional 3 o’clock ; A calendar window is configured at 3 o’clock, and there is a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. It is equipped with an automatic mechanical movement certified by the Swiss Official Astronomical Observatory (COSC) with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations / hour (4 Hz) and a power reserve of 46 hours. The new Chopard Chronograph, limited to 1,000 pieces worldwide, has a 44 mm polished titanium case with a silver lacquer dial-the silver azure chronograph dial is built in, shining silver like silver lightning.
Longines Guide column wheel single button chronograph 180th anniversary limited edition
国内 A domestic watch collector was asked what his favorite high-complexity feature was. He did not hesitate to point out that it is the timing function-the tourbillon lacks interactivity, the three questions require patient waiting, and the timing is instantly controllable. The timekeeping function makes people feel the eagerness of pressing the start key. In the process, they can also ‘separate’ the second second hand to read the time interval. The excitement when it finally stops, even the moment of zeroing also contains joy.
Longines Guide column wheel single button chronograph stopwatch 180th anniversary limited edition, one key to control the whole process of timing. It is to commemorate the first Longines watch with chronograph function in 1878, and its design is derived from the first chronograph stopwatch with a 13.33Z movement produced in 1913. The new limited edition watch is equipped with the L788 movement-this is Longines’ exclusive column wheel chronograph stopwatch movement. The single button integrated with the crown controls various chronograph functions, that is, driving the start, stop and reset of the chronograph. The design of the case reproduces and sublimates the dial originally created by Longines founder Agassi, and the active rose gold lugs are also one of the traditional characteristics of Longines. The rose gold version of this watch is a limited edition and only 180 pieces are produced worldwide.
Glashütte PanoGraph red gold flyback chronograph
In this year’s Basel Watch Show, the watch that foreshadows a classic reappearance, has to mention Glashütte PanoGraph red gold flyback chronograph. Twelve years ago, also on Basel clocks, Glashütte launched the PanoRetroGraph watch. The asymmetrical dial and the ‘flyback’ timing function have aroused heated debate in the industry. The Pano eccentric series launched in 2002 also has German-style excellence. Praised.
格拉 The Glashütte PanoGraph red gold flyback chronograph, launched in 2012, continues many of the highlights of the predecessors, and the larger 40 mm case highlights the asymmetrical visual effect of the Pano Eccentric series. The most interesting feature is the 30-minute flyback timing function, which breaks through the traditional timing design. 30 minutes is divided into 3 10-minute scales, which are indicated by 3 separate hands. The two buttons of the chronograph function are located at the 4 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions of the case, and the usage is clear at a glance: the dial is marked with black font ‘start-stop’ and ‘fly back’, the latter is used to reset the chronograph hand, the former Used as timing.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41mm Automatic Chronograph
As mentioned earlier, the timekeeping function helps humans record every breakthrough in speed, so it has become a regular guest on sports watches. In the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series featuring sports, the chronograph naturally occupies an important position. This year marks the 40th anniversary of the first sports watch. Audemars Piguet has launched a new Royal Oak series automatic chronograph. The new Royal Oak series self-winding chronograph uses a 41 mm diameter case, which is domineering and exposed, and it is more clear when read.
To learn more about the development of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series, the ‘Royal Oak Series 40th Anniversary Exhibition’ held at the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA) in Beijing’s 798 Art District from August 31 to September 1 Contains a rare ‘combat’ class. This is the only stop of the Audemars Piguet Global Tour in China, displaying more than 100 Royal Oak watches, including the first Royal Oak watch introduced in 1972, as well as rare personal custom models. With reference to the first Royal Oak series in 1972, it is not difficult to find a brand new ‘Classic Flame’.
Roger Dubuis Black Titanium Pulsion Chronograph Chronograph Stopwatch
2012 is destined to be an extraordinary year for Roger Dubuis: Master watchmaker Roger Dubuis returns after 16 years behind the scenes, becoming a brand spokesperson, which indicates that the brand will not only carry forward Roger Du Bi’s unique aesthetic watchmaking tradition has embarked on a journey of innovation.
杰 Roger Dubuis launched the Pulsion chronograph based on the dial design structure of the traditional chronograph, with a hollow design, showing superb technology and modern aesthetics. Through the semi-hollowed dial, the RD680’s exclusive chronograph movement is at a glance; the sapphire crystal is directly fixed on the case, which is a major factor in identifying this watch. The revolutionary structural design is engraved with Arabic numerals under the mirror and covered with luminous material. The titanium chronograph contains even more outstanding craftsmanship: its dial design is patchwork, the black outer area is decorated with Geneva ripples, and the numbers 12 and 6 are fixed in two mini circles.
Montblanc Viller 1858 series engraved version of speed calendar chronograph
The ancient human obsession with speed has been passed down and reproduced in Montblanc Viller’s 1858 series of engraved speed chronometers. The engraved version of the tachymeter chronograph is reminiscent of the history of the first time that the mechanical watch structure was superimposed on a pocket watch by Meneva Watch Factory (now Montblanc Manufacture Villeret). The replica tachymeter calendar chronograph inherited the excellent genes is equipped with the newly developed Caliber MB M16.32 movement, becoming the first Viller series 1858 chronograph model with calendar display.
Reprinted tachymeter calendar chronograph uses traditional pointer system to display the calendar (calendar display is at 6 o’clock). At 30 o’clock is the 30-minute timer, and at 9 o’clock is the continuation of the traditional small seconds hand. Together with the dual tachymeter scale, the balanced layout silently conveys the classic breath of the chronograph. Limited edition of 58 pieces in white and rose gold
Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 perpetual calendar two-second chronograph watch
Patek Philippe has never stopped innovating. One of the highlights of this year’s new product is the Ref. 5204 perpetual calendar double-second chronograph watch. Based on the experience of using the CH 29-535 PS basic movement (with six innovative patented technologies) and the successfully launched perpetual calendar function watch of 2011 Ref. 5270, the new two-second chronograph with perpetual calendar inherits Patek Philippe’s Various traditional features-manual winding, double star wheel, horizontal clutch; using the new CHR 29-535 PS Q two-second chronograph movement independently developed-frequency of 28800 semi-oscillations (4 Hz), with 30 Minute instant jump timer and small seconds dial with 65-hour power reserve.
Ref. 5204 perpetual calendar double-second chronograph watch has a completely redesigned two-second hand mechanical structure with two unique innovations: an innovative two-second push-second pusher clutch lever and a patent-pending device that optimizes the chronograph The precise operation of the hands and chronograph hands. Ref.5204 combines classic design and innovative movement, marking the perfect end of the Patek Philippe chronograph series, but the faster the ‘classical flame’ molecules in the watchmaking industry, the higher the temperature.